I have been to Lesvos and I am going around the island with a motorbike. Yes, from one end of the island to the other so that I can have a complete view of the island. Locals ask me if I'm crazy since in one afternoon I did up to 100 km wandering from here to there.
From the wonderful Molyvos to Tarti. From Plomari, where passing your nostrils can smell the ouzo, to Sigri and Skala Kallonis. From the petrified forest to the red sand beach. From the small church of Panagia the Kryfti with the hot springs to Vatera and Skala Sikamineas. What should I do first say and write about this wonderful place?
To be completely honest with you, I did not hold this island in high esteem. Since then, however, this has become a lesson for me as we should not under any circumstances be preconceived about a place we have not even visited. Lesvos is a wonderful place and it's worth visiting, my dear reader.
So I am one afternoon at my friend Panagiotis Ververis from Plomari in Plomari. We drank an ouzo from the well-known local production there and while leaving to go back to Mytilini he told me about a "restaurant" different from the others.
He just gave me some directions on how to get there since if you don't know the place there is no way to find it.
I stopped with the motorbike at a bend on the provincial road of Mytilene - Skopelos, specifically at the height of Lefkakia beach. I got off the motorbike with hesitation since all I was following were Panagiotis' verbal instructions. I walked to the side of the road and pushed the branches aside a big howler in my attempt to find out if there was at least something behind since you can't really see anything from the road. As if I were in a jungle, I keep brushing aside leaves and branches until a wonderful bay with calm waters and a heavenly landscape appeared in front of me.
Palm trees, reeds, poplars and the crystal clear waters create an exotic landscape that is more reminiscent of tropical countries than Greece. That's where Mr. Panais has his sanctuary, that's how his son, Panselinos Charalampelis, called it.
I sat at a table on the beach. After a while, Mr. Panais approached me and asked me in a broken and low voice if I would like to eat something. I told him yes. Would you like something to drink? I answer again, yes, a beer.
I didn't tell him what I wanted to eat. There is no menu or price list at Panai's hangout. As much hunger as you tell him to bring, he also brings. At the time of payment, he will not ask you for a specific amount. You will give what you can, what you feel you have to give.
Freed from any commercial and marketing character. With homely and welcoming warmth, Panai's hangout will welcome you to enjoy moments by the sea and if there's even a little breeze you'll go in a bit, someone might be playing a bouzouki.
The story of Mr. Panais.
Born in 1945. Son of Despina and Dimitris, originally from Ayvali and Lesvos respectively. Married to Eleftheria. He opened his first restaurant in Athens. Very quickly he returned to his native land, Lesvos, where he reopened a restaurant in the Pigadakia area and called it "the hangout" where there was not a single day, even a weekday, that his restaurant was not full.
Known for the infamous paramanas, a variety of appetizers consisting of 25 dishes. Food for him is a ritual, a sharing of taste. It brings the conversation and then the people closer as he says.
Then he moved his restaurant to the Pefkakia area. However, disputes with some locals made him withdraw from the restaurant business.
He used to go alone on the beach in Lefkakia and pondered, that is in his current haunt. There he was watched by an old woman who owned this land. Then the old woman asked him if he wants to buy it.
- I don't have that much money, he answered her.
-I'll give it to you cheap.
In 1987 Panais sells a pre-war BMW motorcycle and a boat he had and buys this piece of land he loved so much. He built a stone fountain to soak there in peace away from unwanted people.
Man of the company, of the guitar. Man of the bouzouki and the song. People and old patrons start looking for him.
He built a small oven, and set up a fake canteen for his friends to come and drink some ouzo.
Play for us some guitar, and sing us a song. People slowly began to gather again, this time in a place all its own. At Panai's place.
Up to 40 people at a table to all sing together and become a group. Honestly, how many restaurant areas have you seen this happen in?
In 2000, he had to undergo an operation to remove the vocal cords and larynx. He had a tracheotomy and now speaks with the use of a device by touching it to the point of the neck. But none of that stopped him from continuing to do what he loves.
Such is the greatness of Mr. Panai's soul that if he meets you for the first time at his place, he will not speak to you using the device, probably in order not to scare you. He did the same with me. He was trying to use the air to create the words to speak to you, but that takes more effort.
People didn't let my father stop doing what he loves, Panselinos tells me characteristically.
How would I go there?
It is worth visiting Panai's hangout when you are in Lesvos.
By clicking here you will be able to put the mark on your map. Don't forget to send me a picture and tell me if you liked the place!
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