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Flirting with lightning.

kalamos lefkada motorcycle diaries

Together with Mari and Konstantina we decided to visit the island of Kalamos for free camping. I don't remember whose idea it was, probably Konstantina's.

Ferry from Patras to Antirio and from there to Mytika to take the small boat that takes you to Kalamos.

When we reached Mytikas and I saw Kalamos in front of me, it reminded me a lot of Samothrace. It is a green island that rises steeply and emerges from the sea.

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After about half an hour we disembarked on the island and our destination for free camping was Myrtia beach. However, there is no way of transportation from the port to this beach, unless you walk under the hot sun in the summer heat for about forty minutes or take one of the island's pirate taxis for five euros. We did neither, let me explain.

So after we disembarked, as I said, we were looking for a taxi because we were also carrying our overnight gear. Of course, we couldn't find a taxi anywhere, all efforts were fruitless. I ask someone in his sixties how to go to Myrtia beach, he realized that we were going for free camping and his behavior was somewhat aggressive and unwelcoming.

kalamos lefkada motorcycle diaries

I see another guy with a cigar in his mouth, riding with his wife on a motorcycle, I spoke to him and he called someone he knew to come and take us.

- "Wait here, he told us, he will come to pick you up in a little while.

The minutes passed but no one appeared at the place we were waiting for.

I couldn't stand idly by and wait for nothing.

My eye notices a boat headed for the harbor. I approach the boat while he had disembarked two girls and while he was tying up I asked him if he can take us to the beach we wanted since it was relatively much closer by sea and how much money he wants for our transport. So Kostas agreed to transport us free of charge.

kalamos lefkada motorcycle diaries

An immigrant from Albania, he had just dropped off his two daughters who had finished their exams in Athens and were now coming to reunite with their family on the island. As far as I remember, one was studying psychology. Kostas on the island does all the chores to support his family. As he himself explained to me, he felt the need that another fellow human being might have for help, and as much as he can, he generously distributes it.

kalamos lefkada motorcycle diaries

I don't know and didn't find out afterwards if the taxi ever showed up.

The boat ran aground after ten minutes on the coast of Myrtia. We started looking for shade to set up the tents. All the shadows were caught. The big pine tree at the edge of the beach also taken, but the family of three sitting there gave us some space next to them.

kalamos lefkada motorcycle diaries

Bread with tahini and croutons to get me going.

Arriving at dusk we took a walk from the beach to the village. Although it was late, the heat was unbearable. But the route in the night through the streets of the island is very beautiful.

We found the only grocery store that didn't close until midnight and bought some fruit, ouzo, ice and lemonade. The three of us hung out next to my tent until we fell asleep after hours of talking.

kalamos lefkada motorcycle diaries

At half past seven in the morning the sun had already hit my tent. I was the first to wake up of all the beach campers. The sun was burning and the temperature was quite high. Just three steps from my tent and a dip in the sea. In a short time, everyone has woken up on the beach and they are also diving in their turn.

kalamos lefkada motorcycle diaries

Tahini and bread for breakfast.

[...] After about fifty minutes the colors of the sea became more intense. The colors of the pine forest facing the beach were also intense. I watched the tips from the pine needles, their movement resembled that of a sea anemone. The whole pine forest was moving as if a huge lung was breathing.

A group of young men had come in a boat and had run aground next to me. I was treated to a nice watermelon and peaches.

kalamos lefkada motorcycle diaries

Suddenly it started to get cloudy with thick clouds engulfing the island and in much less time the first showers came where they turned into rain. Soon everyone was running in panic to collect what they could from the storm that broke out. My tent started getting watery but all I cared about was that this calendar didn't get wet.

The storm was sweeping everything and the campers panicked to save what they could even with disposable bags as waterproofs.

That's when I approached George and Alexandra and asked them for the sap. I was initially looked at with wonder, Alexandra laughed, she had a "he's crazy" expression on her face.

kalamos lefkada motorcycle diaries

I was washed out with the board into the sea in the heart of the storm. Incredible colors of azure, blue and green. Everywhere the smell of pine and resin, the rain hitting my face, my skin, feeling every drop, unforgettable moments. The only man at sea. Campers just peeping through the cracks and watching me flirt with some lightning bolt that just didn't happen to strike me. Before I entered the sea I had put on music on the speaker with appropriate background music for the occasion to accompany me in whatever my mind was alive.

The storm died down after about an hour. The evening came and we sat with the neighbors, Giorgos and Leta, drinking an ouzo on the beach.

kalamos lefkada motorcycle diaries

I slept outside my tent, on the pebbles of the beach on the mattress I always carry with me. I woke up from the footsteps of Konstantina who was walking a little further. The weather was warm, but I had been informed that from the afternoon the weather would deteriorate again. So I packed my tent to be ready, I didn't want any more rainy surprises. I found the taxi driver's phone number and called him to pick us up at five in the afternoon to catch the return boat. This time he came.

You will find the island here.

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